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Last Stand on Earth
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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
Deputy, for the record, I like your idea. There is just a limitation of space of how far it can be tipped back. If I remember back to my millwright days, OSHA recommendation for a ladder is 1ft away from the wall for every 4ft of height to prevent the ladder from tipping backwards. Using that principle, I’ll only have 8” for 4’ height. If it’s needed, I could use a small piece of 1/4” angle iron and weld it to the back at the bottom to make a foot and give a few more degrees of tilt.
 

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Last Stand on Earth
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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
Both prototypes are done and curing. I’ve seen similar to both of these for sale online but these appear to be much larger. My brother has a set, must have been made from pony shoes. Had a few paint mishaps so they will probably be repainted later after the paint is hard enough to strip. Test fit tomorrow.

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Found a couple local sellers of slabs. Be looking at those probably next week sometime.
 

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Last Stand on Earth
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Looks like I didn’t need to wait until tomorrow. The heat accelerated the curing faster than I thought. Here’s the verdict.

Option 1, allows the horseshoes to be hung level but will require additional support, whether that be an arm welded on or a block of wood behind the receiver because it with even the slightest vibration, it tries to rotate upside down. Would allow me to move the barrel rest forward to make clearance for the deerskin backdrop.

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Option 2, more stable but requires offset mounting in order to lace the barrels coming from the other direction. Both mounts have to be mounted the same distance from the back wall.

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Option 3, by far the most stable, would allow level mounts and work on the most wide variety of rifles. Looks goofy IMO, Mount interferes with the view of the receiver. 2 mounts have to be mounted the same distance from the back wall.

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Thoughts, opinions?
 

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Last Stand on Earth
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I thought I’d have enough mounts made tomorrow but I miscalculated and bought too many of 1 size and not enough of the other so it’ll be a few days for that.

I decided to use the deer hide in the smaller case due to size and bought a large 6.5’x8’ cow hide for this large case. It should be big enough so wrap the sides just a little and cover the bottom of the case. The stock photo was of what I ordered.

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For the slab, I’ll go with option #3 above since it will protrude from the back wall 3-4”. For the rifles that hang below the slab Ill go with option #1 above and hide a strip behind the hide to rest the gun receivers on. This will allow me to tilt the guns back for better viewing when standing in front of the case. Not sure if I’ll screw the mounts directly to the hide or buy a steel pipe and cut some standoffs.
 

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Last Stand on Earth
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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
Semi off topic but I was looking through museum displays for inspiration. If you’ve never been to the NRA Museum in Bass Pro, Springfield, Mo and you like old guns, it’s worth the time. There’s something like 1,000 guns and an archery exhibit too. Bring a bib so you don’t get drool on the floor.

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Last Stand on Earth
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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
Well, for a Monday a lot has happened. Cow hide I ordered is not available. Minor setback, plans change so I’ll roll with it. My buddy has started the deer hide.

Salting the hide. Says he’s hoping it’ll be done by Christmas.
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Since it’s smaller I adjusted the case accordingly. Cut the shelf supports down a little less than half the length and opened up a space for the hide. When I get to the point I need more space, I’ll remove more shelves.

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I have not decided yet but I may just move that case in the dining room out with the big case and “extend” it and make one long display. They were made to fit together, I just got rid of the middle case. It would save me some elbow grease finishing a side that’ll never be seen but I’ll weigh that out later.

Picked up the missing shoes so we can get those over to be welded tomorrow. That’ll make 8 sets.

I was talking with the guy doing the hide about how nothing about this project has gone as planned but I can’t complain. For instance, the mounts... I was going to clear coat the raw metal, paint was only if something went wrong. Well, something went wrong and I ended up painting them. I grabbed the wrong paint and had to paint them a second time. Well, the paint separated when sprayed the new paint over the first coat (same brand and type just different color). I’m sure it had to do with the “hammered” finish. Thought I was going to have to strip that off too but I couldn’t have done the finish better if I tried to do it on purpose. It’s the randomness that I like, each one is a little different. I created 2 sets of mounts to see which one worked better. Turns out one of each worked best.

I reduced the tubing I used to 3/16. Fits much better.
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So far, it’s been one long chain of screwups that just keep changing the course and taking on a life of its own. I’ve just learned not to force things to happen, they’ll all work out in the end. Interested to see what the next couple days brings.
 

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Last Stand on Earth
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Not a lot of progress today. Got the furring strips put in to cover the 24 screw holes in the back wall. Ripped some oak down to 1/4” x 3/4”. That made a big improvement. It was also enough that I didn’t need the wood block behind the receiver (at least not with the Golden Boy. Brother picked up the materials for the mounts and intended to weld those up today (hopefully he got around to it). Started polishing up some rifles for display (doesn’t take long for that brass to need polishing). And I got the sliding glass door lock installed but I’m going to move it to the bottom and install a second one at the top.

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Last Stand on Earth
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
It’s coming. Got 4 more sets of rifle mounts that My brother welded up that I still have to clean up and paint. Got tired of chiseling those beads off after the weld and went and got a flap disk for my drill. See if that helps. Got 3 sets of revolver stands coming to prop those up, along with some small rabbit furs to set them on and hide the wire bases. Should go well with the deer hide.

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These were the the stands I ordered for the revolvers. I’ll just poke a small hole in the pelts and run the barrel rod through and hide the rest of the stands. Should give the illusion they are free standing.
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Will need some adhesive led strips to mount on the bottom of the glass because those rabbit furs will block out the light to the lower shelves.
 

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Last Stand on Earth
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Bases on those pistol stands is not big enough to handle the weight of my revolvers. Package says to run through the trigger guard for revolvers. Not what I bought them for, won’t work on the revolver in the back either. The one in front has to be at the edge of the shelf to use like that. Had to bend the crap out of these to get them to work and they aren’t very stable. Have to buy different ones later. Not going to poke holes in these skins until I have permanent stands. Rabbit fur blocks out the light below as expected. They are a necessary evil in case those revolvers do tip. They are heavy enough to fracture the glass. Still on the hunt for under shelf lights.

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Last Stand on Earth
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I forgot to post these from last weekend but he has done the second salting and is drying the hide now. Says he still needs to trim it up. Table is 6’ so that’s a big deer skin. Looks like it’ll be a beautiful piece. Hate the thought of driving screws in it.

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Well I have to say JUST AWESOME....I live in the sticks South Central Ky we have been under siege on a rash of break ins guns and cash are the top items but one has the security system I say WHY NOT!!!!
 

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Last Stand on Earth
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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
Well on the down side, the guy doing the hide says he got in a hurry and the hair didn’t lock into the hide on the lower half. It’s not a complete waste but not going to be able to use like it was intended.

On another note, Nic got his first Henry today for Christmas. A Henry Classic .22. For now, it’s hanging where my .44 magnum goes. When that gets here, I have another set of mounts painted and ready to be hung. There are 9 Golden Boys / Big Boys with the small loop and 20” barrel I’m collecting for this set. We’ll move his to a shelf later, Use a good section of that deer hide to set it on. He was pretty excited. He was just as excited when I offered to hang it in the case with mine.

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Keep calm & return fire!
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Congrats to Nic.
That case looks fantastic. Really nice job!
 

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Last Stand on Earth
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Discussion Starter · #36 · (Edited)
Coming slowly. Idk if I mentioned this already but the deer hide was ruined. He said he got in a hurry and the hair didn’t lock in so it has bald spots.

.44 mag Henry added. There are 2 more shelves below the pic but no guns in them.. YET. I’m working on it. Takes time and money.

Still no shelf lights so I rearranged a little so the light would hit the second shelf.

I love the way those rifle racks turned out. Looks a little off because the buttstock angle is a little more aggressive on the Golden Boys than on the Big Boys so the spacing is a little more.

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Consider LED tape lights. You can get them on EBay pretty cheap. They mount like a strip of tape.
 

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Last Stand on Earth
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Consider LED tape lights. You can get them on EBay pretty cheap. They mount like a strip of tape.
I’ve given that consideration. Have 2 issues to overcome. First is wiring, second is matching the color temperature of the lights in the case. I keep forgetting to check the box at the store for color temp because I tossed my box before I realized I needed that info.
 

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Last Stand on Earth
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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
I’ve been dreading this part but the lights are done. It was important to me to make sure the color of the lights was the same as what I had installed in the top, so I bought 2 more of those shop lights, took them apart and removed the led strips and circuits. Used 1/2” angle aluminum and screwed it to the sides, small pieces of gorilla mounting tape to attach the light strips to the aluminum (electronics are up in the ceiling of the case). Then used 3/4” outside oak corner molding, ripped one side to 1/2”.

The strips of lights are pointed at each other. Without shielding, if you are standing in front of the case, 5,000 lumens are blinding you from the sides. The oak corner molding does 2 things. First it covers the aluminum angle. The side I ripped shields your eyes from the direct light just far enough so you aren’t blinded but allows the light to pass 2/3 across the case. Creates kind of a C channel the lights sit in. See pic.

The aluminum angle plays 2 parts, first as a heat sink to distribute heat and second, creates a reflective surface like a flashlight.

Lights

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Now I can add more guns and still see them at night. Speaking of which I have 2 being delivered today to the FFL.
I’ll also pick up the deer skin that got messed up and use the half that survived on the 3rd shelf.
 
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