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Discussion Starter #1
So I have a Rugee New Model Single Six. It was made in 1976, I believe. It.s the hunter model, I guess, because it has about a 9.5" barrel. Anyways, on tothe good stuff.

I was out shooting it, and the loading gate wouldn't open. I was kind of stumped, so I took it apart to find out what was causing the problem. I messed around with the gate detent spring for a moment and it seemed to be working fine. So I put it back together and am now faced with a bigger problem. The loading gate works fine, most of the time, but now the hammer won't go back half the time. Without the cylinder in, it will cock about hakfway sometimes and stop, and sometimes it will go back all the way. When it does, it feels... different. Almostloose, but not really. Sorry, it's hard to describe.When the cylinder is in, the hammer will only go back about halfway. And the cylinder is kind of loose too, until it is locked in place.. I'm pretty sure I put everything back together right... But I don't know what could be wrong.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated. This was my first gun, and my grandfather owned it. I'd like to fix it myself, if possible.Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Upon further inspection, I noticed the transfer bar seems to be getting stuck on the firing pin. How can I fix that?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Upon even further inspection, I see that the base pin has a little spring that pushes the transfer bar back. I checked that and I couldn't see anything wrong with it, and now the transfer bar isn't hitting the firing pin anymore. It does seem to be slightly sideways, though. Maybe the problem is that the cylinder isn't turning.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's definitely a problem with the cylinder turning, because if I kind of help it a little,it will cock. But only if I open the loading gate, turn the cylinder halfway, and let the hmmer do the rest of the work.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes. I think it's a problem with the metal piece that moves the cylinder. But it looks just fine to me..
 

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Well, without seeing the pistol, the only thing I can think is you have the pawl plunger in wrong or in a bind, it is very easy to get the plunger spring in a bind when you put the grip frame back on, and if the plunger is not free it wont let the hand push up properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, without seeing the pistol, the only thing I can think is you have the pawl plunger in wrong or in a bind, it is very easy to get the plunger spring in a bind when you put the grip frame back on, and if the plunger is not free it wont let the hand push up properly.
Okay. I'll check that out. Also, the cylinder stop is supposed to go down when I pull the hammer back, right? It doesn't.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The cylinder stop goes down a hair but then pops back up when the hammer is cocked.
Well mine isn't moving as far as I can tell. That could hold the cylinder in place, couldn't it? Since that's kind of what it is supposed to do ha. So what might cause that?
 

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take the cylinder out and cock the hammer, you said earlier that it would cock with the cylinder removed, you can easily see the cylinder stop move with the cylinder out. If it does not move, then you have obviously reassemble your pistol wrong.
Did you take the grip frame loose and check the pawl plunger?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
take the cylinder out and cock the hammer, you said earlier that it would cock with the cylinder removed, you can easily see the cylinder stop move with the cylinder out. If it does not move, then you have obviously reassemble your pistol wrong.
Did you take the grip frame loose and check the pawl plunger?
Don't you mean the cylinder latch plunger?I checked it.. It goes in spring first, just like the manual says. But what makes it go down when the hammer is cocked? Because I'm guessing that's the problem.
 

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one other thing, you said you could get it to cock if you opened the loading gate and helped the cylinder to get it to cock, if it is a new model single six ( which if it is a 1976, or bi centennial model it is ) then you should not be able to cock the hammer,
 

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No I mean the pawl plunger, on the left side of the frame below the hammer, the plunger goes in first if I remember right , I have seen rugers reassembled with the spring completely smashed between the grip frame and the frame and they did not cock .
The cylinder latch plunger can cause problems if you did not get it square under the cylinder latch, if it is off to one side in other words.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
No I mean the pawl plunger, on the left side of the frame below the hammer, the plunger goes in first if I remember right , I have seen rugers reassembled with the spring completely smashed between the grip frame and the frame and they did not cock .
The cylinder latch plunger can cause problems if you did not get it square under the cylinder latch, if it is off to one side in other words.
I think the pawl plunger is good. But the cylinder latch spring is bent EVER so slightly. That must be my problem? I guess I need to order a new one..
 

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Discussion Starter #20
In case you were curious, I found out my problem. My hammer Plunger broke.
 
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