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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm looking to either buy a tactical chassis or stain it black. If someone could lead me to a good site to buy a tactical chassis or tell me what type of clear finish this is that would be awesome.

.338 Winchester magnum - model 1500 HOWA

Thank you,
Rob
 

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Only suggestion is Google do research go to different sites and see what is there I can point to Boyds or numrich prices vary so ridiculously it is not funny throw on a special sale and price drops some more. If it were ME I would net surf and check some Locals that make stocks in my area get more than one price. I have only learned through the years RESEARCH this is always the best option.......
 

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I can not get the pic to enlarge. But if it's natural wood. I would not stain it black. I would strip it and refinish it. And bring out the natural gain and beauty of the wood. If you want black get a second stock. I second Boyds they make a quality product.
 

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Dang that stock has some nice grain in it.
If you paint it black, that would be a dang shame.
Just buy a plastic stock for it if that is what you want, but please leave that nice hunk of wood alone.
 

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If this is what you’re set on doing. There are black stains. Minwax makes two I believe. One is Jockobean and I don’t remember what the other is called but a trip to the local hardware/ paint store should have what you want. From there you’d have to decide what kind of finish or level of gloss if any. For military type stocks I like to use tongue oil. For a semi gloss I would recommend Birchwood Casey and select one of those. The quality of the finish is directly reflected in the prep work. There’s several videos on YouTube as well as other places on the prep. I usually completely sand the stock down to bare wood making sure all oils and old sh is removed. After sanding it to about a 200 grit, I take a sponge and wet the stock down. This will raise the grain. Sand it again. Wet it again, leaving about 24 hours between wetting and sanding. Keep doing this until the grain stops raising and then wipe it with 000 steel wool. Don’t burn it with the steel wool. After you get it baby ass smooth, you can apply the finish. If it’s the oil, you’ll want to do about 3-5 coats letting dry for 12-24 hours between coats. That should leave a nice hard Matt finish.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I actually use to paint houses so I'm pretty good at attention to detail type painting. Like 10k sqft homes. Anyways Can't I just remove the clear coat, sand it down with up to like 400 grit, and then stain it, then apply a clear coat. I'm Probably going to do a matte finish. And I'm assuming once I restain it the grain should pop back out.

Stamps : what do you mean military type stocks

Ray : lol nice comment
 

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Military stocks like on a M14/M1A or a Garand are a oil finish. They may use linseed oil but I like tongue oil because it’s harder. Hunting guns usually use one of the many types of poly’s or acrylic type clear coats.
The 400 grit is good but you’ll still need to wet and raise the grain then sand a few times before you apply any stain or finish. The grain will stop raising after a few times and give you the nice finish you want. It’s nice to give it a steel wool wipe between coats. Skip the proper prep and you’ll be starting all over again.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well the Tung oil sounds ideal but I can't find it with matte sheen. What would you recommend for hardest finish and matte sheen stamps? And can you apply tung oil by rag?
 

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If it were me i wouldn't touch that stock. Either keep it or sell it and get a different one. It's your gun to do as you wish but you're going to ruin a nice piece of wood.
 

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Yeah apply the tongue oil with a rag and rub it in then wipe off the excess. Every paint store should have it. As others have said, this is a permanent thing you’re doing. If you have your heart set on this route, go for it. Remember that prep is the most important and most difficult part of the process.
398A6E84-1ADD-4227-9C10-8E237DFC1506.jpeg
this is my Garand under bright lights. This rifle is 75 years old and I think it looks great.
 

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I was a custom cabinet maker for many years. Did custom finishes as well. If you really want to mess up a nice stock, I will second the Citrus Strip. There are clear stains on the market that will stain that and make it much nicer than paint. And they have it in Charcoal. You can also control how dark you want it. It also works on leather.
I have used Spar Urethane Satin finish, an exterior clear finish, on stocks and knife handles. It works well and holds up. And can be applied with a rag in thin coats.


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