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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 870 x is rusting along the barrel and on both sides of the reciever,I want to get it stripped,but I dont know what kind of finish would be better Parkerizing or Bluing,I dont want Camo on it :?: ...
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Gunny the Gun said:
Go with the parkerizing, it is stronger then blueing and does not rust as easily.
I got a Browning thats older than Me! and obviously Its Blued and no rust...
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
the duracoat is an excellent finish. it does require an air compressor, air brush and the usual metal preparation before hand. i do agree parkerizing is some what tougher than blueing,but when you say bluing are you talking hot blueing or cold blueing. no doubt parkerizing is tougher than cold blue.however to say hot blueing rusts quicker should be a moot point. any finish if left in a wet gun case after a day of hunting will rust.dry your gun off with a moisture displacing oil,even wd - 40. once a guns rusts once it really has to be looked after,because it will rust easily after that. pblsyd p.s. disassemble dry and lube on the inside as well.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
o.k. hot blueing will give you a glossy blue,really it's black finish. parkerizing will give you a dull,almost black finish both are done in with heated solutions in tanks. parkerizing can be a zinc phosphate base or a mangaese base. i've switched over to dura coat which is a spray solution but bonds to the metal much better than paint. getting parkerizing and hot blueing salts into canada and then disposing of the used solution can be a pain in the a--, regulation wise ,at least here in ontario.one advantage to parkerizing , as i said before, is the duller no gloss finish,which may be better for hunting. all these systems work. but metal still must be lubed to keep it from rusting,especially in the off season.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I know you already decided, but thought would drop ya this note
duracoat is an excellent finish and there are others too, like Cera Kote. If you don't want to do it yourself there are finishers out there that can do it for you, cost a little extra $$. The cera kote for the harder surface one has to be baked.
I had some work done with http://www.larsontactical.com and they did a great job on my rifle and stock, check out the gallery on the website for pics.
take care
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
you're right tom12b, cera coat is a good finnish as well. i mentioned dura coat because it' s the one i use. exxit, dura coat does come in a matte black finnish,that is dull with little shine. you also have flat black, semi gloss and gloss as well as the whole gaumet of colors and stencils for evey camo pattern imaginable and then some.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The diy method
for duracoat-they have directions on their website plus they'll send you material and there is DVD that comes with/or can order with the package to help with the prep work. If I remember right, (don't bash me if all details not listed) it's basically clean surfaces, degrease, wipe dry and it's ready to coat.

good luck
 
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