Euroarms revolvers were made by Armi San Paolo of Italy. The company has since been bought out by Pedersoli. My Pietta revolvers seemed to prefer .451 round ball while the Uberti's seem to work better with .454 diameter RB. So it will be a matter of experimentation til you find which shoots best in your revolver. My Pietta Remington and other Pietta revolvers also seemed to work best with #10 Remington Percussion caps with fewer cap misfires.
Yes RN bullets can be shot in it however you'll want to get a mold that casts a .450 diameter bullet. They are a real PITA to load as it is difficult getting the flat based bullets started from just the pressure applied from the loading lever. I suggest the LEE double cavity mold that casts both a .450 diameter conical and a round ball.
Use felt wads such as "Wonderwads" seated under the bullets or apply grease over the top of the seated bullets and you don't have to worry about chain fires. The grease method can be messy. Percussion caps are sold in sealed tins and will last for years. If left exposed such as in a capper their shelf life is shortened. oil contamination is the biggest danger to percussion caps.
Alan here are three accessories that you'll need right off the bat with your new percussion revolver. The first is a powder flask. This Remington style powder flask features a valve and the spout functions as a powder measure. It comes with a 24 gr spout. I swapped mine out for a 30 gr spout and later modified another spout to 35 gr for my Remingtons. Remington chambers are longer than Colt style pistols and will accept larger powder charges.
For a Remington style revolver the inline cappers work well. This is a tool used to applying the percussion caps to the revolvers nipples in the loading process. Snail style cappers work for Colt Style revolvers but not for Remingtons.
During the cleaning process you'll want to remove the nipples from the cylinder so you'll need a nipple wrench.
Some of these have a wire pick attached to them for clearing a clogged vent on percussion nipples.
I'd also highly recomend picking up a box of Hornady swaged roundballs in .451 diameter and a pack of wonder wads. If you can get real blackpowder in your area I'd suggest going with that rather than substitutes
I haven't found any real BP yet (I've asked at every place. My flintlock won't hardly shoot without it). I have Pyrodex for pistols right now. In the past I've used a brass mortar and pestle to grind up the pyrodex to get rid of the coating they put on it to keep it from igniting. Everything is so safe it won't work. I've thought about making my own BP but haven't really wanted to blow myself up just yet.
Glad to help Alan I've been shooting these C&B revolvers since the 70's So I'm happy to answer questions about them. I too am looking for new source for real black powder and am begining to think I may have to break down and pay hazmat fees to have a mixed case shipped to me from a distributer.
Alan, I have a bunch of those wonder wads Mike was talking about already made up. I'll send you some and so you can try them out. The ones I make are felt, saturated in 4:1 lamb Tallow/Bees wax. They are stable and will not contaminate your powder. All my BP revolvers are already in Del Rio. So I don't need these.:thumbsup:
Ballistol is good stuff. What I've found that works just as well is a 50/50 mix of Murphy's oil soap and water. When I was shooting in Cowboy Action I carried a spray bottle filled with this mix and as Deputy mentioned after shooting about a dozen rounds through my revolver I'd pull the cylinders, then spray and wipe the powder fouling from the base pins. I also use the hot soapy water method for cleaning my C&B revolvers. Before reinstalling the nipples I give a drop of oil to the threads of each one wiping off excess. This keeps them from seizing on the cylinder between shooting sessions.