Clean your mags. I was getting that with one of my 380's. It may not be your mags but it was for me. It's worth a try.
9mm cast lead not feeding
Hi all. I have been reloading for a couple of decades now, and make .223, 7.62 (30 cal), 38, 44, 45, and 50(muzzleloader) Using cast lead. I have all Lee dies. For some reason, I am having a problem with my cast 9 mm working in either my Glocks or my AR-nine. I believe the die I am using produces a bullet that is 132 grains, but I do not know that off the top of my head. It is a conical bullet, six-cavity. It is designed for a 9 mm, however. It is not a 38. What I am noticing, even after these bullets are sized using a Lee Sizer, and Lubed using liquid aloe, I am getting an etching in the lead bullet parallel (lengthwise) to the case. They just will not feed. Any ideas? They all mic fine and easily drop into the barrels of the Glocks and AR-nine when they are removed. I thought of polishing the feed ramps, but I don’t think since this is a lengthwise indentation I am getting in the lead, that this will solve my problem. I would assume that would be if it were perpendicular, more like smile in the lead. Any thoughts would be helpful. The same exact bullet recipe works perfectly fine in all firearms when I use a jacketed bullet instead of the lead that I make. Thank you!
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Run a few through a Lee factory crimp die and then try feeding them through the gun.Hi all. I have been reloading for a couple of decades now, and make .223, 7.62 (30 cal), 38, 44, 45, and 50(muzzleloader) Using cast lead. I have all Lee dies. For some reason, I am having a problem with my cast 9 mm working in either my Glocks or my AR-nine. I believe the die I am using produces a bullet that is 132 grains, but I do not know that off the top of my head. It is a conical bullet, six-cavity. It is designed for a 9 mm, however. It is not a 38. What I am noticing, even after these bullets are sized using a Lee Sizer, and Lubed using liquid aloe, I am getting an etching in the lead bullet parallel (lengthwise) to the case. They just will not feed. Any ideas? They all mic fine and easily drop into the barrels of the Glocks and AR-nine when they are removed. I thought of polishing the feed ramps, but I don’t think since this is a lengthwise indentation I am getting in the lead, that this will solve my problem. I would assume that would be if it were perpendicular, more like smile in the lead. Any thoughts would be helpful. The same exact bullet recipe works perfectly fine in all firearms when I use a jacketed bullet instead of the lead that I make. Thank you!
This not only crimps, it also makes absolute sure every single cartridge "fits" the gun. If it will go through the die, everything else is right to feed it through a gun.
It might be helpful if you could post a picture of one of the rounds ; visual aids help.:thumbsup:Hi all. I have been reloading for a couple of decades now, and make .223, 7.62 (30 cal), 38, 44, 45, and 50(muzzleloader) Using cast lead. I have all Lee dies. For some reason, I am having a problem with my cast 9 mm working in either my Glocks or my AR-nine. I believe the die I am using produces a bullet that is 132 grains, but I do not know that off the top of my head. It is a conical bullet, six-cavity. It is designed for a 9 mm, however. It is not a 38. What I am noticing, even after these bullets are sized using a Lee Sizer, and Lubed using liquid aloe, I am getting an etching in the lead bullet parallel (lengthwise) to the case. They just will not feed. Any ideas? They all mic fine and easily drop into the barrels of the Glocks and AR-nine when they are removed. I thought of polishing the feed ramps, but I don’t think since this is a lengthwise indentation I am getting in the lead, that this will solve my problem. I would assume that would be if it were perpendicular, more like smile in the lead. Any thoughts would be helpful. The same exact bullet recipe works perfectly fine in all firearms when I use a jacketed bullet instead of the lead that I make. Thank you!
You said the same “recipe” works fine with jacketed bullets, which would cause one to question the cast bullets, or differences between the two loads such as COAL. Are the cast bullet loads longer? How long are the loaded cartridges? Again, a pic of the line etched on a cartridge might help, and just a pic of the loaded cartridge.
Hmmm. They have all gone through the factory crimp die. I use them on all my loads. The mags are brand new. I will try to get some pics when I get home...
Do they past the "plunk" test? Meaning take the barrel out of your glock and see if they will fully drop(not push) into the chamber with no effort. That would be the first thing i would do to eliminate as a factor.
Another question; do they completely fail to feed, as in, not able to chamber even the first round, or is it occasional problem or often? What is your load configuration? Powder, primer etc?
I have attached a few photos. oal just a hair over 2.8. Factory round next to it. Lead round is shorter. Plunk tests with factory (win box) and lead rounds( upside down box) both appeared to be successful. I use win 231 ( I think somewhere around 4cc on perfect powder measure) and win small primers. It will load and fire first round, but no subsequent rounds. Usually ejects fine, but won't chamber.
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Only one thing left it COULD be, they are too long, but usually if they will FIT in the mag they will feed. I see in your next post that isn't the problem.Hmmm. They have all gone through the factory crimp die. I use them on all my loads. The mags are brand new. I will try to get some pics when I get home...
Clean & wipe 'em all off. Clean the gun, polish the ramp.
Weak springs may be.
I was thinking may be not enough crimp and the case was catching BUT that looks like a LOT of crimp to me.
I THINK those head space off the front of the rim like a 45acp. I can't see it doing that with that much crimp.
Another thing is about the OAL. Shorter for different bullet SHAPES doesn't ALWAYS mean good. The longer, pointer shape of the copper jacket can let those be longer, so long as they function in the magazine. The shorter, rounder shape of the lead can let it hit the lands sooner than the copper jacket and still look short inside the magazine. Don't know that has anything to do with your problem but it is some thing good to recognize.
You're OAL length looks like 1.100, 2.8 is rifle range lengths. I just set my machine up the other day using 124 lead RN bullet using 4.2gr. of W-231 and i think i set my OAL at 1.070 which is just a hair shorter than yours. If they pass the plunk test your crimp should be fine.
It could be weak loads that are not getting the slide quite all the way back, but the load data you shared does not sound like it. Not sure if you really meant 4 cc, or actually meant .4 cc. It would seem that .4 would be about right, but 4 honestly would not fit in a 9mm case. I would double check your load parameters carefully, as it might be border line on the weak side and thus, with this particular bullet, not able to fully function the gun. This could easily leave a scrape or line on the side of the round as the slide runs over it without being quite far enough back to pick it up, yet enough to eject. I did a quick look converting cc to grains with what data you provided and, like I said, if it is .4cc it sounds reasonable...maybe even high for the bullet weight you indicated in the OP. Double check your load data. I am guessing you have been doing this long enough to know how to lube your lead bullets without contaminating powder, so I ruled that idea out because of your experience level. Wish I could truly help more.
He is using metric measurements I believe.You're OAL length looks like 1.100, 2.8 is rifle range lengths. I just set my machine up the other day using 124 lead RN bullet using 4.2gr. of W-231 and i think i set my OAL at 1.070 which is just a hair shorter than yours. If they pass the plunk test your crimp should be fine.
You're OAL length looks like 1.100, 2.8 is rifle range lengths. I just set my machine up the other day using 124 lead RN bullet using 4.2gr. of W-231 and i think i set my OAL at 1.070 which is just a hair shorter than yours. If they pass the plunk test your crimp should be fine.
Sorry the 2.8 was cm. I should have stated that.
Sorry the 2.8 was cm. I should have stated that.
Ok i didn't even realize that. Aged warrior.is on to something to. What does your load translate into grains? I was using 3.8grains of W-231 for awhile and it was very unreliable in my glock 17. At 4.2 it functions great. Which model do you have? I know earlier you said you were using bullets that weighed 132gr., are you sure of that weight. Very odd size for a 9mm and if you're using a lee mold i don't think Ive ever seen that one.
The bullet weight is 124 grains for the mold I bought, I was able to look it up. I’ll look at the grains of powder I used tonight when I am home. Thanks to all for your replies.
Interesting...for a 124 grain bullet, .4cc should be about 4.3 grains of 231. That should be a respectable load. You may want to pull a bullet and weigh the charge to see what is actually in them.
Interesting...for a 124 grain bullet, .4cc should be about 4.3 grains of 231. That should be a respectable load. You may want to pull a bullet and weigh the charge to see what is actually in them.
If that's what it is then the load is fine. I think 4.4 or 4.5 is max according to the data i use. Like i said i use 4.2 and that will function my Glock 17, S&W shield, bersa thunder, luger and FN Hi Power so it's not a wimpy load by any means.
[FONT=New Century Schoolbook, serif]Plunk Testing:[/FONT]
[FONT=New Century Schoolbook, serif]The solution to chambering problems is to determine the cause:[/FONT]
[FONT=New Century Schoolbook, serif]Take the barrel out of the gun. Drop rounds in until you find one that won't chamber. Take that round and "paint" the bullet and case black with Magic Marker or other marker. Drop round in barrel (or gage) and rotate it back-and-forth a few times.[/FONT]
[FONT=New Century Schoolbook, serif]Remove and inspect the round:[/FONT]
[FONT=New Century Schoolbook, serif]1) Scratches in the ink on bullet--COL is too long[/FONT]
[FONT=New Century Schoolbook, serif]2) Scratches in the ink on edge of the case mouth--insufficient crimp[/FONT]
[FONT=New Century Schoolbook, serif]3) Scratches in the ink just below the case mouth--too much crimp, you're crushing the case[/FONT]
[FONT=New Century Schoolbook, serif]4) Scratches in the ink on case at base of bullet--bullet seated crooked due to insufficient case expansion (not case mouth flare) or improper seating stem fit[/FONT]
[FONT=New Century Schoolbook, serif]5) Scratches in the ink on case just above extractor groove--case bulge not removed during sizing. May need a bulge buster.[/FONT]
[FONT=New Century Schoolbook, serif]The solution to chambering problems is to determine the cause:[/FONT]
[FONT=New Century Schoolbook, serif]Take the barrel out of the gun. Drop rounds in until you find one that won't chamber. Take that round and "paint" the bullet and case black with Magic Marker or other marker. Drop round in barrel (or gage) and rotate it back-and-forth a few times.[/FONT]
[FONT=New Century Schoolbook, serif]Remove and inspect the round:[/FONT]
[FONT=New Century Schoolbook, serif]1) Scratches in the ink on bullet--COL is too long[/FONT]
[FONT=New Century Schoolbook, serif]2) Scratches in the ink on edge of the case mouth--insufficient crimp[/FONT]
[FONT=New Century Schoolbook, serif]3) Scratches in the ink just below the case mouth--too much crimp, you're crushing the case[/FONT]
[FONT=New Century Schoolbook, serif]4) Scratches in the ink on case at base of bullet--bullet seated crooked due to insufficient case expansion (not case mouth flare) or improper seating stem fit[/FONT]
[FONT=New Century Schoolbook, serif]5) Scratches in the ink on case just above extractor groove--case bulge not removed during sizing. May need a bulge buster.[/FONT]
Update... shot it again, and still having the same feeding issues, accompanied by light primer strikes. A small percentage feed with no problem, some I need to nudge the slide closed, some won't feed at all, as previously described. As I said, this is the only caliber I have had this issue with...
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Had to reread the whole thread to get my head into this again. After mulling it all again, I was thinking two aspects. First, when they fail to feed, exactly what does that mean? In your last post it sounded like sometimes it just did not quite get the slide closed the last little bit; has that been the nature of these or are they sometimes not picking up the next round, or maybe getting stuck cocked in there? The light primer strikes are another issue, I would think. Could very well need a clean and lube or your cases might be a bit short. I am guessing short cases are not the issue since you are not new to reloading. Excessive crimp could allow the cartridge too far into the chamber too, but that is more scary for overpressure, though I suppose you could induce a light strike. I guess my brain is not firing on all cylinders right now, because it sounds like two separate problems, but both could be caused by gun needing clean and lube. The striker can get gummed up even when all else is cleaned if it gets a lot of lube in there. But, the feeding issue was with two different guns that work fine within jacketed bullets, so...I don’t know!:confused5:
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