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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Starting a new thread as the last one is a little bit of everything. Got my new 88 gun safe home. With 4 guys it wasn’t too bad. I had to do some rearranging, moved the other safe to a different wall and put this one in its spot. It’s much bigger than I expected. The Liberty safe is definitely higher quality but you could fit it inside of this one.


Looking for ideas as to what to do with the interior of this safe. It’s huge. I’m somewhere between 5’11” and 6’ and I can step inside. I swear you could hide a family of 6 in here. My last safe was remodeled as a tactical safe. That thread is here: https://www.nationalgunforum.com/general-gun-discussion/194876-just-getting-back-into.html


I’d like to keep more traditional firearms in here. Some lever action rifles, revolers, etc. Unlike my Liberty safe, the door on this safe swings open 180 degrees, I think I’d like it to open like a bifold wallet. It’s pretty deep, maybe take advantage of that with a rack inside that swings open like the door in the opposite direction. Nothing is off limits. I’m open to suggestions. I am a seasoned woodworker so I can fashion just about anything from a piece of wood. Cutting and welding is possible to create new framing as needed. That diarrhea color felt has got to go. Need something that goes with both brass and stainless steel.

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Ok, I’m back to it. She’s naked now. Got all the drywall stripped out. There is no debate on where this thing is built, evidenced is on the drywall. Let me take a min to point something out. I’ve done a lot of drywall in my day and I have never seen a sheet of drywall shatter when tossed on the ground. Every sheet did. There were 2 layers, one 3/8” and one 1/2”, which gave it its 45 min fire rating. Whatever they are using is definitely not up to US standards.

Second observation is, all of the “wood” shelving is really 5/8” cardboard. I wouldn’t consider this MDF. The Liberty in contrast used 3/4” fiberboard, which I reused. This stuff is going in the garbage.

So, as I said in my last build, if I were a smart man, I’d have used Durock in the walls for fire resistance. That’s what we’re going to do here. We are going to replace the 7/8” of Chinese drywall with 5/8” Durock. That will take the fire rating from 45 min to well over 2 hours. (A Durock panel 1/2-5/8” will have a fire resistance rating up to 2 hours). Then add 3/4” plywood over that for an added insulation value near what just the drywall was. My house will be burned to the ground before the contents burn. In all, I will only lose 1” in interior width 3/4” depth due to the extra door thickness.

While I am on the subject of dimensions, I left a pretty nasty review on this safe, on the sellers site. Dimensions on the sticker, on the front of the safe state 73”x46”x31”. It’s not. It 72”x45”x28”. Doesn’t sound like much but it’s 7.74 cubic feet of missing space, or an entire 14 gun safe! Needless to say, I was a little ticked. In comparison, Liberty was true to the stated measurements.

2 layers of drywall
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Felt covered cardboard
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Naked at last...
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Allow me to make a suggestion here. Since you have stripped it down this far go just a little more. Look for a hole in the back near the floor of the safe. It would be about a half inch in diameter. This is for passing electric into the safe. If it does not have on make one. Yes this will hurt your fire rating a little but you can reduce the damage buy using a Romex box connector. The type that closes the hole as it is screwed down. On the wall of the safe where this hole is made use two layers of drywall or 5/8 cement board.

Run the cord from a plug strip through the hole. You now have power inside the safe. This will be handy for hooking up a heater strip to fight humidity and the lights I reccomend you install.

You can buy strips of LEDs on a paper tape. This is available from e-bay. You can cut the tape to what ever length you want. There is tape available that has a sticky backing on it. Run this LED tape in the space in the front wall between the door opening and the side wall. The LEDs facing the back wall. Mount a roller switch on the hinge side of the safe so that whe the door is shut the switch is ope when the door is opened the switch is closed. Your safe now works like a refrigerator. Open the door the light go on. The LED tape strips work on 12V so there is virtually no chance of a hot spark in case you decide to store powders in there. But the lights are bright enough to light up the inside of the safe. In fact you may want to tone them down a little they are very bright. The lighting will be indirect so it will not glare in your eyes. The inside of the door opening makes this location a bit recessed so they will not interfere with the shelving.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So, in the last safe, I drilled out a plastic plug and ran the wire under a false floor to a light switch and a floor plug. Then ran a super bright rope light around the door flange just as you described. Secured it with conduit clamps. We will be doing the same here, only this safe doesn’t have a plug so will be drill through the metal and secured using a standard clamp for a steel wire box, probably the same thing you described.

The last safe had recessed hidden hinges so I could only go around one side and the top of the door frame, so I added a couple battery powered led lights. This safe doesn’t have that issue. The hinges are on the outside so we can run the entire door frame.
 

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Note that the Chinese sheetrock typically contains asbestos so be careful about breathing that crap or getting too much of it on your skin.

--Wag--
 

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They would be awesome for home theater. I don't know how you did yours, but if I ever get a roundtuit I would set them up as indirect lighting near the ceiling all the way around the room. They would give more than enough light to see the pop corn bowl but no glare on the screen and subdued lighting for the movie.

I did do something like that in the kitchen. This is an old house and the kitchen ceiling is 10 feet. The cabinets do not go all the way to the ceiling so I ran these lights on top of the cabinets. Great night lights for midnight foraging.
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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Here you go, Siplace.



--Wag--
 

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Here you go, Siplace.


--Wag--
 
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88 gun safe!? Holy heck! How much does that thing weigh? Did you get some engineer out there to construct steel supports under your floor?! lol
 

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Discussion Starter #14
88 gun safe!? Holy heck! How much does that thing weigh? Did you get some engineer out there to construct steel supports under your floor?! lol
No, floor joists are weaker the further apart they are and the longer the span.. These are only 8’ long, 16” on center. 835lbs. My Christmas village weighs more than that.
 

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Add 88 rifles and you're up to around 1450 lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Add 88 rifles and you're up to around 1450 lbs.
If only 88 would fit. 20-26 is what I figured average 8lbs each, depending on configuration. But add 12 ammo cans at 23lbs each, now we are tipping 1300lbs. I don’t expect it to be sitting there long enough for it to get near that weight.. The Christmas village weighs in at 1100-1200lbs.

The Christmas village goes up around 2nd of November and stays up until mid to end February, about 4 months. I haven’t had an issue yet. I don’t expect to still be in the house in November. If I for some reason am, no village this year.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Popeye, for the record, I hadn’t thought that far ahead until you mentioned the full weight. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.
 

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That safe wont hold 88 long guns, it's 72 with 16 pistols. Unless you're putting in 72 Winchester 94's you can cut at least a third off that number. Fatter guns like M-1 Garands, bolt handles, scopes etc all cut down the space drastically. I have been wanting to redo the racks and shelving in my safe so i kinda can't wait to see how you do it so i can possibly steal, use and or modify your idea's for my safe.
Now i know what lighting I'm going to use, thanks Siplace!!!!

Wait till you start playing the 30 gun shuffle on range day.......
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Haha, yeah I won’t do the 30 gun shuffle... I just buy another safe. Have patience. It takes a bit of time. I can’t remember but I think the last one was about 2-3 weeks before complete. Takes a little cash too. I’ve already spent $250 in material, got the walls installed and dry fit but I haven’t a clue how I want the rifles and hand guns arranged. Now I’ve got to remove the walls, floor, ammo shelves and ceiling, glue the carpet down and let it sit for 48 hours before I can put them back in. I’m gonna wait until tomorrow to do that because I’m beat. In probably going to have to borrow a few guns from little brother for measurements and fitting once the walls are back in. So far nothing special. I did manage to drill out the back and get power line under the floor.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok, after many retries and recutting I finally have the foundation of our remodel done. I liked having the heavy ammo cans at the bottom of the last remodel so I do that here too, only 12 fit in this safe. The rest of the build will be built around the guns I want to put in here. There will be more shelving in the center, short rifles can go above the extra shelves. I just purchased a Henry Golden Boy 30-30 in a trade yesterday. I will likely collect them all and will likely be my centerpiece of my collection. I’ll take some measurements when I get to the store tonight. However long they are is how much room I will need to leave above the shelving. I currently have 49.5” above the ammo cans, 11” in front of the cans and 69” in the space in front of the cans from floor to ceiling to mount really long guns. I also have 61” on the door.

tonight I’ll figure out lights and gun racks. I’ll also finish the door

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