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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all! I have been reloading my own shot shell for some time now, and it has turned out to be very cost effective. I recently purchased a G21 and would love to reload for that. From what I can tell I would save a TON of money. So my questions are:
What is the difference between the .45 auto and .45 ACP round?
Will they both fit in my Glock?
What reloading equipment do you suggest for a beginner on a budget?(assume I am starting from scratch)

Thanks in advance!
 

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Old School.
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11,011 Posts
They are the same round. I would recommend a good reloading manual and then research the different makes of presses and chose the one you like the best. If you need more help just post on the board and you will get it. Good luck.
 

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Ancient Gaseous Emanation
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.45 Auto is .45 ACP (Automatic Colt Pistol).
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Can anyone suggest a good starter for reloading these shells. And also a good supplier of reloading material?
 

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Do you mean a tumbler? Not really, but yes. You need to clean the brass, and a tumbler is the easiest method. You need to remove all carbon, dirt, or anything else that is on teh brass after hiting the ground. You do not need to "polish" the brass. Some guys want them to shine. I don't care if they are as dull as leather, just clean.
 

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Old School.
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If you want you can clean them well enough to load them with some Simple Green and a bucket, but it's a little messy. Plus you have to get them good and dry before loading. They will not be bright and shiny.

I recommend a tumbler. Good luck.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Will a rock tumbler work for this? Sorry for all the questions I just want to do it right the first time. :thumbsup:
 

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A rock tumbler would work but it would depend on the size of the barrel how much brass you could clean at one time. The vibratory cleaners are much more efficient and easier on your brass.Price wise,both Midway and Cabelas offer vibratory kits at reasonable prices.My personal cleaner is a Cabelas I paid $35.00 for and have put thousands of brass through over the years. Media wise it is up to personal preference as to using walnut or corn cob,walnut cleans faster but corncob polishes better IMO.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That is the kind of info that I am looking for! Thanks! Could you send me a link to the viratory kit that you have? Is a powder scale necessary? What powder do you suggest I use?
 

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www.cabelas.com Sorry not computer literate.My sons tried to teach me all that cut copy paste stuff but I never can find where it went after I cut it 8( Perhaps a couple good reloading manuals would be a good place to start.There are many variables involved in reloading that are covered in depth by the publications available from the major players in the reloading market,Hornady,Speer,Sierra,etc.that go into detail on equipment and technique.
You are only going to get a few loads from your hulls before they are not usable so cleaning IMO is not neccesary unless you drop them in the mud!
 

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Other than a good manual,no,but if your pocketbook could stand the strain a higher quality press and scales would be better. The Lee is a good starter though because reloading isn't for everybody , if you are just an occasional loader or decide you don't need to reload you aren't out a weeks pay , if you do get hooked you can always upgrade as your budget will allow. for the 45 acp you should get carbide dies
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Awesome! Yeah I have a set of Lee Caride dyes in my shopping cart now. I am thinking I will probably reload for as long as it is cost effective. I am on a low budget that is why the thought of reloading occurred to me Is there any other presses or beginner set that are in the same price range that you would suggest over the one I linked?
 

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the next step up would be the RCBS Partner press kit ,it would be about 70 0r 80 bucks more.And I don't think you would be gaining that much. The Lee set will probably be just fine.Just be sure to get a good manual .The Lee modern reloading manual would be budget wise and have the info you need to get started
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Sweet well I think I have everything that I need! Thanks to everyone for guiding me in the right direction!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
You know, I don't get cheap with any bullet that operates in a semi-auto weapon. When people have problems with cycling in a semi-auto, dirt is the culprit many of the times. You don't have to polish, but the cleaner, the better for you.
I would recommend the Hornady Vol. 1 and 2 reloading manuals. They have all of the data that you will need. They have trajectory/ energy charts. And they have your reloading steps covered in case you need a reminder. You will find every load you will ever want. Until you have loaded for a while, I would not share my data with you for yours and my safety and liability. When you have some time and understand more theory, sharing load data is much safer. Get started first.
Case length is important as the cartridge headspaces from the mouth of the case. No crimp or very little crimp is used so that you don't affect the headspace. Compare this to a rimmed cartridge; 38 Special. It spaced from the rim. The autos use the case mouth. If you look into your chamber, you'll see the edge that your case mouth will stop against. Measure lengths even if it's new brass.
Good luck and have fun.
 
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