You're going to need some other tools like a powder measure and scale. I would recommend staying away from lee on the powder measure and get a RCBS. The lee are real cheaply made and i hear people all the time complaining they leak powder. I do a ton of reloading and just use a cheap franfurt arsenal digital scale. They work very well. I actually have two and check them between each other often and also check them with a beam scale i have but i never actually use the beam scale for loading because they can be a pain. Don't be afraid to buy more than one book. I have 3 i use the most. Lyman and Lee and then the lyman cast bullet book if you're going to use cast bullets but many(not all) of the loads are in their regular book. There are a ton of other books too but they are mostly bullet and powder brand specific where the other two are not and cover so much more. A hand primer will come in handy and i like Lee's over the RCBS but they just changed their design in the last year so i can't say if that one is good or not. My RCBS will pop the top cover off when priming but maybe i just got a lemon. With the list of de calibers you posted you probably won't need a trimmer but if you get into any rifle calibers you will. Straight wall pistol for the most part does not stretch enough to worry about and auto cases will actually shrink over time but the differences in case lengths won't really affect anything. Case gauges/ammo checkers come in handy when loading. Check out lymans multi caliber ones. You can get one that will do everything on your list except the 500S&W and its maybe $20 or so. You'll also need a set of calipers, don't skimp on those and buy a set from harbor freight or get a plastic set. Get a set from RCBS, Lyman etc. There are some other things you'll need as well. A way to clean your brass. You can go dry, wet or use a sonic cleaner. For starting out a decent dry vibrator works fine. Loading blocks come in handy and you can make them if you're a wood worker or just buy them. I like the frankfurt arsenal one but they are a little more expensive than some others that will work fine. A kinetic hammer will also be useful and i'm sure i'm forgetting some other small tools that you'll need or come in handy.....Prepare to save some money!!!! lol
I would recommend you start with 38sp and do it all on the single stage to get yourself familiar with all the steps and how everything works before you jump into the progressive after reading through one of the books you buy. . 38sp is one of the easiest calibers to load IMO. When you start in the semi auto calibers shoot some in your guns before you load a bunch. Just because you see loads in the book does not mean they will cycle your gun correctly. make sure the load has enough power to eject the case and pick up the next round, no stove piping etc.<----- ive actually made this mistake a few times. Nothing like having 500 rounds to shoot up that won't reliably work. Please do not start out loading for the 500, one little mistake can be bad on those high power calibers.