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  1. #61
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    I looked at one similar but thought it would be awkward with that narrow 16” bit.

  2. #62
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    I ended up working too late to do anything. Here’s some daylight pics

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  3. #63
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    We’ll, we are at roughly 6’6” high, 8’6” deep and 24’6” wide. Unfortunately, I am going to have to stop there for a while. Nothing to lift any higher at the moment. Be a little bit before I can get something out here. Needs 2 more rows. For now I’ll back fill it and start on the front, use this one for handgun and cowboy shooting, use the father-in-law’s for rifles, at least until I get it up to 8’. I got the posts staked to the ties and upright and 2 more rows put on today. Need 1 more stick of 1/2” rebar to make enough stakes to secure the top row. When the last row finally goes up, I’ll lay a post across each corner and bind the side walls to the back wall and brace the posts. I’ll wait to brace the posts until everything else is done so I can fill over the top of the back wall.

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  5. #64
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    Btw, for those wondering the cost, I am at $635 in material not counting tools, bits, blades, gas or diesel fuel. That’s just ties and rebar. Add $165 for 10 more ties and 3 more sticks of rebar. That brings it to right at $800 in ties and rebar. I had free posts and free fill (so far).

    Not saying it can’t be done without the posts if building with new ties but these used ties are so irregular that it’s unlikely stacking them on their side would be stable without them.

    To estimate the amount of fill you’d need, I figure ~ 50% of the volume at 91 cubic yards or 816 cubic feet of packed fill.
    Last edited by Philmo11; 07-11-2019 at 11:05 PM.
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  6. #65
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    91 yards of fill is equil to 7 tandem axel dump trucks of dirt. Wow.

  7. #66
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    It’s pretty good sized. Here is a pic of a 12” target on a stand in front of it. Got it filled but am out of dirt at the moment so this will have to do for a bit. The fill inside it now is 9, 16’ tandem dump trailers full.
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    Last edited by Philmo11; 07-12-2019 at 04:28 PM.
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  8. #67
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    Well, it serves its purpose. I emptied a mag from each of my new .40’s and one from my new .380, which btw, all had great accuracy at 65 feet.
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  9. #68
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    Quick question on targets, I can get 3/8” and 1/2” ar500 targets. Is 3/8” enough to handle a .308 or 500 magnum or do I need to go 1/2”?
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  10. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by Philmo11 View Post
    Quick question on targets, I can get 3/8” and 1/2” ar500 targets. Is 3/8” enough to handle a .308 or 500 magnum or do I need to go 1/2”?
    I'd get the 1/2", bigger & thicker is always better, but I'll measure mine in the day light tomorrow. Mine is getting shot up and beat pretty bad but I've had it for years and years now. That 308 stands a good chance of going right through either one at less than 100 yards. Mine has a few holes in it so I'm getting a pretty good idea what it takes. About anything hitting it at 3000fps is going right through and over 2500 is a maybe depending on the type of bullet.

    My 45-70 has been putting quite a hurt on mine lately but it is probably getting pretty brittle by now. The corners were broke of it by the 44 mag rifle years ago where it had a hole for hangers 1" from each side in two corners, both those corners broke off eventually from 44 mag hits. Now it is starting to crack in a line from those old holes, through the new holes I made with a plasma cutter. I figure eventually it is gonna break and I'll need a new one.

    I make my hangers by bending hooks out of 3/8 rebar any more instead of using chain. If you really want to give the kids a thrill seeing that steel jump around, hang it from rubber bungees!
    Last edited by Jack Ryan; 07-14-2019 at 09:24 PM.
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  11. #70
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    Hmm, not sure what your targets are but my .308 wont go through 1/2” AR500 steel. The 1/2” plates are rated for .338 Lapua Magnum @ 200 yards. I’ve shot my 1/2” targets with both .308 and 500 magnum (500 magnum at 25 yards) and barely scratched it but the thickness makes a big difference. That 1/8” could be the difference between barely scratching it and fracturing the plate. I was having a hard time finding ratings for 3/8” AR500 targets, so, I split the difference. I don’t want to overkill on the lighter rounds. A steel plate that doesn’t move when shot has more potential to throw it back at you at closer range.

    What I ordered is below:

    Silhouette Shooting Target | AR500 Steel | 22.5" x 12" x 3/8" | V2
    Pair of AR500 Silhouette Steel Plate Shooting Targets 20"x12" 3/8" Thick
    4 Sets of AR500 Steel Shooting Targets 6" 8" 10" x 3/8" Thick

    I already have these out at the father-in-law’s:
    Pair of AR500 Silhouette Steel Plate Shooting Targets 20"x12" 1/2” Thick
    2 Sets of AR500 Steel Shooting Targets 6" 8" 10" x 1/2” Thick

    I’ll reclaim the 1/2” silhouettes (he doesn’t use them) and 1/2” x 8” round targets and leave the 10” and 6” out there for him to use.

    I when I create the doors and windows in the faux building front, I’ll make the windows big enough to hang both 1/2” and 3/8” silhouette targets in each window and use the respective 8” round targets for heads.

    In the doorway I’ll hang the slightly longer silhouette.

    I’ll color code the targets so we know what’s for high power rounds and what’s for lower power rounds. That’ll give us 3x3/8” silhouettes with heads and 2x1/2” silhouettes with heads.

    I’ll bolt some of the extra round targets to angle iron to make knockdown targets for the window sills. Send the rest back to the father-in-law’s for him to use.

    Maybe I’m putting too much thought into it but that’s what I’m doing. They’ve already shipped. Don’t remember what it cost but it wasn’t cheap.
    Last edited by Philmo11; 07-15-2019 at 09:53 PM.
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